As members of the Coast Guard Auxiliary, Flotilla 7-1, Hans and I are not always as active as we’d like to be with that organization. Our first real opportunity to serve with the Auxiliary came this past weekend, and it was an experience that neither of us will soon forget. We didn’t defend the country from terrorist acts and we didn’t save lives . . . at least in the immediate sense. We hope we helped in the saving of lives in the long run, and know that we will remember the experience forever.
We traveled to Smith Island, Maryland where we assisted in teaching the “Maryland Boat” Safe Boating class to young people of the island and nearby mainland towns and areas. Anyone born after July 1, 1972 who wants to drive a boat needs to have a license, and must pass this course. We had 29 students, from 8 years old to 35.
We left our slip in Baltimore on Friday, June 29th at 4:05 am. On board were Hans and I, along with long-time friend Barbara Smith, and also Dion Mulvihill, both members of our Flotilla. We rendezvoused with the three other boats that were going to Smith Island at West River G-1 at 8 am, exactly four hours into our trip. John Sill, who is from another Flotilla in the same District, transferred from the boat "Klein Aboard" to Aqua Vitae for the rest of the voyage. It was a beautiful trip down to Smith Island. Aqua Vitae ran the ten hours without a hiccup, and while we normally run at 2400 rpm for 8-8.5 knots, we were helped along by the tide so it only took us 10
hours to do the 88 miles.
The narrow, winding channel into Ewell shifts with the whim of the sea spirits, and our little flotilla was led through it by Bill Dize, a most remarkable man who moved to Smith Island from Tangier Island (Virginia’s Chesapeake Bay Island which is south of Smith) with his wife Jenn about thirty years ago. Bill's history, love of the water, the island, his wife Jenn, and
generosity of spirit (not necessarily in that order) are legend. His deeply 
tanned face and brilliantly blue eyes reassure the visitor that anything can be managed. He and Jenn both sport the Elizabethan Cockney accent that is a traditional part of Smith and Tangier, a leftover from the early English settlements (John Smith landed there in 1608.) Bill warned us of the tricky shallows in the channel entering Ewell, the main town of the island. It is only 35 feet wide, and wanders away from the red . . . hug the green, but follow me, he said. We did!
We had dinner that first night at the “local” restaurant in Ewell, "Ruke's Seafood," which is half antique shop and half restaurant. This intriguing place is worth a lot more time than just dinner or lunch, and I'm sorry we didn't go back for more exploration. The restaurant is well staffed by two women whose names I did not get but who cooked and served 20 of us with smiles and wonderful food. I had a sandwich of three soft shell crabs, French fries and local cole slaw for $12.50. We spent our evening in the little "club house" that belongs to the marina, enjoying the company of others who had come on this journey for much the same reasons that we had: what can we do to help?
On Saturday we were served breakfast at the local B & B, Chesapeake Sunrise, operated by Pauli Eades, right there at the Smith Island Marina. Pancakes and bacon, OJ and fresh coffee (that kept coming, and coming. . .!)
The class was held on the first floor of the Methodist Church, which is a big bright structure dominating the “Main Street” of the town. Pastor Rick welcomed us all with a smile.
That night, back at the docks of the marina, Bill and his wife Jenn treated us to one and a half bushels of crabs, which we picked with varying levels of success. Steve Klein, who was master of the toyboats in the instruction that day, was also master of the hardshells that evening on the docks, lasting well beyond what any of the rest of us could achieve!
A wonderful surprise was Jenn's presentation to each of the four boats that traveled to Smith Island for the weekend with the traditional Smith Island 10 layer cake . If you are a young woman of Smith Island you cannot marry until you've proven your worth with the baking of one of these cakes. Jenn had baked FOUR of them that day, to the delight of all of us! She is an amazing woman, having also hosted some unspecified (and unimaginable!) number of students who had come from all over the region for the class.
Sunday morning brought us 15 knots of wind out of the north (in our teeth!), with gusts to 25. It could have been worse . . . it could have been on the beam, and we would have stayed right where we were, and maybe that wouldn't have been so bad after all! Reverend Rick gave a blessing of the fleet before we left, for which we were all grateful. Bill led us out of the channel, and this time we followed his instructions carefully and tucked in close. We had watched the day before as a sizable cruising trawler had run aground mid channel and had spent the better part of the day trying to pry loose. We had a newfound respect for Bill's "tricky" channel into Ewell.
We'll go again to Smith Island. The clean simplicity of life there was tantalizing to those of us who struggle with traffic (Smith Island has perhaps four cars, or six, some of which sport license plates) the hustle of the daily grind (the Smith Island Cruise Boat arrives at 1:00 and leaves at 4:00, and those are the hours when you hustle. . . if you want to, if that's what you do, only. . . I don't know that the word "hustle" exists in the Elizabethan Cockney of Smith Island. . . ) The rest of the time you live with nature, the elements (which don't always seem natural!) and whatever/whoever is your God.
It is an amazing place with amazing grace.
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A couple of things . . . Don't forget that to view any of these photos at full size you just need to click on them. Also, I'm going to continue to post new photos here if I get new ones or images that are different. I still haven't looked at every photo I've taken but wanted to post it sooner rather than later. Also, please remember that if you click on any of the photos here they are larger and more clear. I hope. Having said that, some are better than others at a large size, and I still have to work that out -- AND will do so, soonest!
The photo of Aqua Vitae returning from Smith Island is by Sam Blate, who recorded the entire weekend for posterity with camera and pen. Um. Okay, okay, Sam, with camera and computer, I forgot what century we were in! . . . Easy to do that on Smith Island.
